As someone who has stood on the summit of Mount Everest over a dozen times, I can say without hesitation that training is everything. No one lucks their way to the top of this mountain. The blend of endurance, strength, technique, and mindset sets apart a successful climb from a dangerous one. Ultimately, being in true Everest shape isn't just safer for you—it's safer for your Sherpa team and climbing partners. When you're strong and efficient, you reduce risk for everyone around you.

At Benegas Brothers Expeditions, we've guided hundreds of climbers on big mountains worldwide and seen firsthand what works. We're not just guides; we're climbers ourselves. We know what it takes because we've lived it again and again.

My Everest History

I started guiding on Everest in 1999, and since then, I have participated in 15 expeditions, including summiting 13 times.. On my last trip in 2018, I summited Everest and then summitted Lhotse the very next day—an experience that tested every ounce of endurance, strength, and focus I had. Every season, I see climbers who show up strong—but strength alone isn't enough. You need to train smartly for the mountain's specific demands. I've moved through the Icefall, the Western Cwm, the Lhotse Face, and the Southeast Ridge in all kinds of conditions. Every season, I see climbers who show up strong—but strength alone isn't enough. 

Real Training for Real Mountains

Here in the Wasatch, I train primarily through backcountry skiing. It's my favorite way to build aerobic capacity, strength, and mountain movement. The big vertical days in Big and Little Cottonwood Canyons mimic the sustained effort required on Everest.

Aerobic Capacity is Everything

Endurance is the backbone of mountaineering. If you can't keep moving for 6, 8, or 12 hours daily—day after day—you won't make it far. On Everest, the timeline and effort for a summit push look something like this:

• Base Camp (17,500 ft) to Camp 1 (19,500 ft): ~2.5 miles, ~2,000 ft gain, 5–7 hours through the Khumbu Icefall

• Camp 1 to Camp 2 (21,000 ft): ~1.5 miles, ~1,500 ft gain, 5–6 hours across the Western Cwm

• Camp 2 to Camp 3 (23,500 ft): ~1.3 miles, ~2,500 ft gain, 5–7 hours up the Lhotse Face

• Camp 3 to Camp 4 (26,000 ft): ~1 mile, ~2,500 ft gain, 5–6 hours into the Death Zone

• Camp 4 to Summit (29,032 ft) and back: ~2 miles round trip, ~3,000 ft up and down, 10–16+ hours

That's a massive output at high altitude, often on little sleep and limited calories. If your aerobic base isn't solid, the mountain will break you down.

Strength That Serves You

Mountaineering strength isn't about lifting heavy weights at the gym. It's about being able to carry a pack uphill for hours without your legs giving out. Here's how I think about strength training:

• General Strength Phase: Build clean movement patterns with full range of motion and light resistance. This is about durability and injury prevention.

• Max Strength Phase: Focus on lifting heavier loads for low reps to increase force production—without adding bulk.

• Strength Reserve: If your pack weighs 50 lbs and you can step up with 100 lbs, you're only using 50% of your capacity. That buffer is what keeps you going when fatigue sets in.

• Muscular Endurance: This is where you condition your body to do thousands of step-ups without losing power. I recommend one ME workout per week as you approach your climb.

Movement Efficiency = Energy Saved

Poor technique drains energy fast on Everest. Whether it’s inefficient footwork in the Icefall or struggling on fixed lines, I’ve seen climbers burn out not because they weren’t strong but because they weren't smooth.

We coach our climbers on real mountain movement: how to stay balanced on crampons, how to transition on ropes, how to walk across ladders. Practicing these skills beforehand means you waste less energy when it really counts.

To simulate Icefall movement during training, I set up agility drills over unstable terrain, practice walking on ladders in crampons, and use ropes to rehearse clipping and ascending systems. It's not perfect, but it trains the coordination, balance, and focus required to move efficiently through the most dangerous section of the mountain.

Pre-Climb Recovery (aka Tapering)

The final stretch before the expedition is all about recovery and preparation. For Everest, the approach trek acts as a natural taper. I usually recommend light activity 2–3 days before departure to let the body rest, stay sharp, and avoid illness. If you're going on a climb that demands high output from day one, like Denali, a full taper 1–2 weeks out is better.

The Mental Game

No matter how fit you are, Everest will test your mind. Cold, altitude, long days, and uncertainty are all part of the experience. The key is learning how to stay calm and focused under stress.

Long aerobic training days help build that mental stamina. So does putting yourself in mildly uncomfortable situations—sleeping outside, hiking in rough weather, carrying loads uphill. The more discomfort you can train through, the more resilient you'll be when the real test comes.

And belief matters. Confidence isn't bravado—it's knowing that you've done the work, and you're ready.

Final Thoughts

I've guided climbers from all walks of life to the top of the world. The ones who summit aren't always the youngest or the strongest—they're the ones who train with purpose, move smart, stay focused, and trust the process.

If you're aiming for Everest—or any big mountain—train for the one you're climbing. Train your body. Train your mind. Train your skills.

At Benegas Brothers Expeditions, we're here to guide you every step of the way.

Let’s climb!

—Willie Benegas